Im still a lover of trains, (even if they aren't steam) but have been seduced by long -haul travel,so I haven't had a rail holiday for years.
deciding it was time to change, I took a trip to Austria. Starting in Salzburg, I took the train to Graz and then on to Vienna.
Salzburg
Starting at the main square the Hautplatz Graz has a number of food –themed walks, including ‘Stop and eat’ tours which include drop-ins at various restaurants and wine bars to sample local delicacies incluing Pumpkin seed oil, the regional delicacy – dark green and viscous, with a nutty taste. Drizzle on salads and desserts.
The farmers’ market beside the opera house has the best local produce and Styria is known for its wines, notably weissburgunder, sauvignon blanc and schilcher rosé. A ‘Beer walk’ takes in ales from Styria’s 40 breweries.
It is 50 years since The Sound of Music hit the big screen,
but there is more to Salzburg than the Von Trapps and the movie that was set
here. The beautiful city is a fascinating mix of classical culture and historical
idiosyncrasies.
Much of Salzburg’s appeal lies in its authenticity. Even
modern shops have traditional iron hanging signs and people here are seen
wearing national costume of lederhosen for men and dirndl skirts and peasant
blouses for women as their daily wear.
Upmarket ski resorts are a short train ride away, and magical markets
abound in November and December.
*Music escapes from every doorway and a gentle introduction to the music of Salzburg’s most famous son –
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart - is a tea time concert by the Mozart Players in the
city’s Kuenberg Hall. The programme is a kind of ‘Greatest Hits’ hosted by a
costumed compere who provides facts about the composer’s life and works.
www.mozart-in-residenz.at
Nearby is the lovely
St Peter Stiftskeller, a Benedictine abbey in the heart of the old town
which has been the meeting place for princes and bishops, celebrities and merchants
for over a millennium. A visit by Charlemagne in 803 is its claim to be
Europe’s oldest hostelry. Austrian fine dining includes specialities such as consommés
with dumplings, stuffed chicken served on grappa risotto, and chocolate soufflé
served with sour cherries.
The palace of Hellbrun, painted in Imperial yellow, was the summer
palace of the Archbishop Markus Sittikus 91612-1619) built purely for his
amusement. It is dotted with trick fountains which soak the unsuspecting
visitor and Italian style mazes. Next year, 2016, marks the 400th
anniversary of Hellbrun with exhibitions planned.
www.hellbrun.at
The Salzburg Festival takes place each year in July and
August, attracting the cream of the world’s musicians and music lovers and
famous for its glamorous audiences.
www.saltzburgerspiele.at
A landmark in the heart of the city, the medieval fortress
towers over the rooftops and encompasses 900 years of architectural history. Ascend
by funicular railway or by foot
The Salzburg Marionette theatre. More high art than puppet show, this family
owned theatre puts on productions that are definitely not just for the children
and include opera and Shakespeare.
TIP: Use a Salzburg ‘City card’ to get into tourist
attractions, museums and palaces
ON THE TRAIN
The train ride from Salzburg to Graz is a picturesque ride
through the Austrian mountains, old salt
mines, unspoilt pasture land, pretty ski resorts and charming towns with
old-fashioned railway stations. The OBB trains have big windows to view the
passing scenery, and refreshments on board)
Graz
Austria’s second city, Graz, is the heart of the region of
Styria, and is Austria’s first and only culinary capital in 2008. So it is no
surprise that food is one of the main attractions here
Starting at the main square the Hautplatz Graz has a number of food –themed walks, including ‘Stop and eat’ tours which include drop-ins at various restaurants and wine bars to sample local delicacies incluing Pumpkin seed oil, the regional delicacy – dark green and viscous, with a nutty taste. Drizzle on salads and desserts.
The farmers’ market beside the opera house has the best local produce and Styria is known for its wines, notably weissburgunder, sauvignon blanc and schilcher rosé. A ‘Beer walk’ takes in ales from Styria’s 40 breweries.
In August the historic centre of Graz turns into a giant open air
restaurant for the ‘Long Table of Graz’, a dinner with matching wines and
musical entertainment for 700 people
The city has 50 inner courtyards many of them home to small
intimate jazz clubs which are famous as far afield as Brazil. The amazing armoury
(Landeszeughaus) contains the largest collection of antique armaments in the
world.
Just 10 minutes'
stroll over the River Mur, by contrast, is the bright blue contemporary art
gallery (Kunsthaus) and no trip to Graz is complete without a walk up the
stairs of the Schlossberg to the city's clock tower – where ond finds great
views and an excellent restaurant.
ON THE TRAIN
The journey from Graz to Vienna is an impressive ride along
the UNESCO World Heritage Semmering railway (between Mürzzuschlag and Wiener
Neustadt), one of the world's first mountain railways. Sit on the right hand
side for best views; this is a breath-taking journey
VIENNA
Austria’s capital waltzes between tradition and modern life, from the 150 year
old Ringstrasse to its Life Ball, one of the biggest AIDS charity events in the
world.
2016 marks the 10th anniversary of the
death of Emperor Franz Joseph and Vienna will be alive with events which
celebrate the last century which has seen the city change from an opulent
imperial capital to a thriving contemporary city.
Don’t miss:
Schönbrunn
Palace is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Coffee houses epitomise Viennese culture and there
are a number of historic ones around the city. Visit Viennese institution the Hawelka with its famous Buchteln
yeast buns filled with jam.
The Spanish Riding School with its Lipizzan horses
perform in the Winter Riding School in the Hofburg.
Vienna is
synonymous with music, home to the Vienna Philharmonic and the world-famous Vienna
Boys’ Choir. The Vienna State Opera
houses some of the best operatic performances in the world
Ferry trip to Bratislava: Visit the Hungarian and Slovak
capitals Budapest and Bratislava by high speed boat from
Vienna.
Fact box:
Railbookers offer tailor made holidays by rail to Europe and
beyond. Their 5 night holiday,
‘Highlights of Austria’, visits Salzburg, Graz and Vienna,
with scenic train journeys in between.
020 3780 2253.
www.railbookers.com/highlightsofaustria
